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Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.